ZOHD Drift Review

ZOHD spoiled us a little bit lately by releasing quite few interesting FPV RC planes like Dart 250 for instance. Their latest creation called Drift is not following exactly what they’ve been doing in the past and now they have made a small glider.

As a wing pilot I never tried gliders before. They always intrigued me but I never took a bite of that yet. Till now. ZOHD was kind enough to provide a sample of Drift (PNP version) for this review.

What’s in the box?

My version is PNP which and it comes with:
– Drift plane kit with hardware
– SunnySky ZOHD 1406 2600kv motor
– 30A ZOHD ESC with 5V BEC
– 4.3g x 2 and 8g x 1 servos preinstalled
– HQ 3x5x3 and HQ 5×5 propellors
– Stickers
– Manuals

Plane comes dissembled in 5 main parts. Assembly doesn’t require any glue. Everything is done with supplied plastics screws.

Worth mentioning: box in which Drift comes in is made of pretty thick cardboard and has a handle on top – it’s perfectly suitable as a carry on / storage box for the plane during transportation. That is a bonus!

Servos area already installed with all attachments being in place. Wing servos are connected with fuselage by 3 pin connectors – they make contact when wing is attached and in place.

Wing servo
3 pin connector on fuselage
Servo tail attachement

There are 3 bays in fuselage, two on top and one on bottom.
Top ones are to access camera, battery, flight controller and GPS.
Bottom one allows access to ESC and rear servo. That location can also be utilised for other components like Video Transmitter for instance.
PNP version comes with ESC and motors installed and there is wire harness coming off ESC for connecting battery via XT-30, radio receiver via 3 pin servo connector and also 5V BEC connector.
Total weight of PNP kit is around 170g.

Bottom opening
Top front opening
Top rear opening

Quality of EPP is very god. All parts came together nicely, including the wings. There is only one screw holding the wings together in place.

Servos are fitted firmly and cable management is spot on in PNP version.

There are carbon fibre spars fitted in various parts of fuselage and wings to make them more stiff and structurally solid. In some YouTube Drift reviews there was mention that spars are not glued properly and they required additional glue to keep them in place better. My copy of Drift didn’t have that issue at all.

Whole fuselage is glued from two foam parts and I noticed that area above the FPV camera location wasn’t held by glue 100% and I had to reinforce this seam with more glue and additionally just a transparent sticky tape. This was the only area I would say wasn’t done properly out of the box.

Drift build

Now the exciting part which is the actual build of the plane 🙂

I wanted full iNav setup on this plane and here are the components I used:
– Matek F411WSE FC flashed with iNav 2.5
– TBS Crossfire Nano Radio Receiver
– TBS Unify Pro32 nano with TrueRC Singularity Stubby
– RunCam Split 3 Nano

First thing I had to do was to remove the wires from ESC because not all of them were necessary. I only left the power wires and signal cable to connect ESC to Matek F411WSE.
Soldered ESC wires and XT-30 pigtail to the bottom layer of F411WSE. This board is made of two layers – first acts as PDB (plus servo connectors) and second has all other connectors to GPS, RX, Camera, VTX etc. That design helps a lot because the top rear bay is super small and is only good enough for FC of this form factor.
I have used double side 3M tape to stick it on the plywood inside fuselage and then soldered other wires for everything else that comes attached to second layer of FC.

ZOHD came out with clever solution of how to mount GPS on Drift – it goes inside the foam cover for the FC bay. They even included some sort of black plastic cover to hide the GPS. It looks very neat and well thought of.

Bottom bay has a lot of space and I decided to put Unify Pro32 Nano inside there. Drift has air inlets at the front and sides providing air flow inside the fuselage, so VTX should get enough cooling.
I decided to design a small 3D printed adapter that would hold it better for cooling. Printed it in PETG because of high temperatures this components normally gets.

My small 3D printed mount in orange inside bottom bay

Only thing I spent a bit of time thinking of was how to install the VTX antenna in a good location. After scratching my head for a while I decided to use 10cm SMA pigtail so route it to the top of fuselage – punched the hole in foam and put the SMA connector in there. Very neat solution and I was super happy about it.

Front bay was much easier to complete. RunCam Split 3 camera fits perfectly though the camera mounting hole. Unfortunately there isn’t much that would hold it in position apart from the opening itself.
For that I designed small 3D printed bracket that held the camera so it wasn’t moving. Unfortunately it was another 3grams added to the nose and as I found out later it was making the plane nose heavy (yes, only 3 grams 🙂 ) so in the end decide to remove that and replace with DIY solution of foam and tape 🙂
Runcam Split 3 PCB is held loosed at the front without addiiontal mounts etc. It doesn’t need anything because every battery that goes inside the bay always sits further to the back of the bay to achieve CG. No issues here. Cooling is also sufficient.

Fitting Crossfire Immortal-T was a bit a head scratch too. I wanted to keep it vertical for best reception. Normally I out crossfire antennas through the wing by punching hole in there. On drift I wanted to have alternative approach and installed it at the rear of fuselage, near the motor mount, also by creating small canal in foam to feed wire and securing antenna T section with a blob of hot glue.
It looks best visually and also wings are untouched so thats a bonus.
For those who will say right away: “What if antenna will get into prop?” my answer would be: that shouldn’t be an issue since those antennas are pretty stiff.

To get the CG right I used marks in foam located on the underside of the wing. I balanced plane just about 5mm in from of those marks as advised by Matt from RagTheNutsOff. It is achievable easy by shifting battery in the bay back and forwards.

I need to mention that during build I damaged the stock ZOHD ESC….In order to calibrate throttle range this ESC needs to be connected to RX directly. Unfortunately I had everything soldered already absolutely no way of getting RX connected directly to RX without de-soldering stuff.
In the end managed to calibrate the throttle range but when I put ESC back into the bay and soldered wires it was only beeping. After taking it apart again it wouldn’t do any sounds strangely meaning something was very wrong with it. I’ve got lots of soldering experience etc but had no clue what happened to that ESC.
In the end I swapped ESC to my spare 35A blheli_S which can be calibrated in iNav but also ESC settings are accessible via passthrough using blehli configurator app. Its more convenient so bad thing turned out good.

Below is a screenshot with my configuration in iNav:

Total weight of my finished Drift without battery was 222g and 320g with 2S Li-Ion 3000mah which I am planning to use the most due to huuuuge capacity.
My build is by no means under 250grams. Im sure it would have been possible to shed at least 30-40 grams off my build but I didn’t really care.

Flying experience

Tested both 2S and 3S configurations.

2S setup:
– Li-Ion 3000mah made from LG HG2
– HQ 5×5 prop (came with the kit)

3S Setup:
– 850mah, 1000mah
– HQ 3x5x3 prop

I wasn’t lucky with the weather initially because there was very foggy week in Scotland and since I live at the coast “Harr” was pretty bad. Maiden flight was carried out in very foggy conditions but successful 🙂

Drift launched successfully during first launch. Immediately I used iNav’s servo autotrim to get the trims right since I never fly in manual anyway.

3S performance was actually quite close to 2S. It was cruising at around 2amps which is really good results and speed easy 30-40km/s with about 50% throttle.

2S performance is pretty good too. It was cruising at around 3amps with speed of around 30-40km/s.

Of course amperage and speed depends on throttle management. During my second flight I flew against wind gusts of around 40-50km/h and speed was reduced to around 15-20km/h when flying against the wind bu also I used higher throttle of around 80-90% where current was up to about 6-7 amps.

Rough estimation of flight time gave me about 1hr on 2S Li-Ion and 20 minutes easy on 3S 1000mah. Very decent flight times.

Drift glides very well without much effort. It was so different to a wing guy because wings don’t really glide much. ESC was set to stop the motor with zero throttle so there is no drag on freely spining prop.

Maiden flight:

Flight in windy conditions:

Chillout field cruise:

Fog surfing:

In short very enjoyable experience. It flies slower than typical FPV wing but is super relaxing. I had zero experience with gliders before so this is just a beginning of exploring this area.

Conclusion

I have to admit this little plane surprised me. Positively. Compared to wings where I had many failed launches this one flew off my hand right away.

Good things about Drift:

  • Good materials quality as a whole
  • Easy to assemble
  • Everything is detachable so its easy to carry around and travel with
  • Good price for what it is
  • Attention to details is at very heigh level
  • Easy to launch
  • Easy and relaxing to fly
  • Very quiet in flight
  • Good cooling thanks to the air intakes at the front and sides
  • This plane is fun for the whole family

Things to consider:

  • Can be difficult to fit all components inside because of limited space inside the bays
  • Cant use larger batteries than 2S Li-Ion or 3S (1000mah tops)
  • Batteries have to be fitted on the side rather than flat becuase main bay is not wide enough
  • Quality of glue in fuselage. There was area in mine where I had to re-apply uhu-por because seam wasn’t working any more
  • Additional bolt to hold wings in two locations would give more security and rigidity. Not 100% necessary but would be nice to have a second attachment
  • Would be nice to have additional means of holding FPV camera in the front of battery bay
  • It’s a slow flier so if you seek thrill you’ve come to a wrong place with Drift
  • It’s a plane for calm days although it can take wind to some extend


TBS Tango 2 Review

There has been nothing but speculations circling around, since the first mention of Tango 2 during one of the TBS live streams. Well, it’s here finally and I had a chance to get one early before the actual release to write this review.

Without a further ado let’s take a look at Tango 2.

Small disclaimer: I have never used first TBS Tango remote, so in this post I won’t be comparing Tango 2 to its predecessor – TBS Tango.

I will be reviewing a pre-release version, so final box content for instance might be different from what I’ve had.

Tango 2 comes in two versions – Tango 2 (150$) and Tango 2 Pro (200$). Pro version includes foldable sticks and that’s the only difference. I’ll be reviewing Tango 2 Pro.

Link to the TBS website: www.team-blacksheep.com/tango2

Tango 2 can be purchased from HobbyRC in UK: https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/tbs-tango-2-pro-transmitter

Specification:

Built in Crossfire link with 10mW, 25mW and 250mW available power settings
Weight: 345g
Size: 17 x 14 x 6 cm
Battery: 1S 5000mAh
Charging: 5V @ 2A, USB Type-C (Runtime approx. 8hrs)
Display: 129×96 pixels OLED panel
Audio: 3.5mm headphone jack
Antenna: Standard full-size TX antenna with switchable vertical or horizontal polarisation
Gimbals: Hall with adjustable spring tension and vertical range. M3 thread. Foldable sticks in Tango 2 Pro version
Switches: 2 x 2 position, 2 x 3 position and 2 x momentary

In the box

  Tango 2 box is very tiny compared to typical full size transmitters. 

Inside the box I received was:

  • Tango 2
  • Gimbal Springs Set
  • U.fl to SMA Adapter with 3D printed bracket
  • Neck strap 

Physical appearance

Tango 2 is a gamepad style controller, very compact and light. It has a rubber grips at the back which can be removed to access screws underneath for opening the shell. 

The shape of transmitter is comfortable and ergonomics are good. I am a hybrid-pincher and had no issues when using it that way. It fits pinchers and thumbers too.

There is no physical trim buttons but it is done after double clicking the scroll wheel and selecting each trim by another double click. Straight forward.

Charging is done via USB-C.

Foldable sticks

Tango 2 has folding sticks for ease of transportation. You need to pull the stick off the gimbal and then it folds towards the centre. I haven’t seen this feature on any RC remote yet. That’s pretty cool stuff.

Foldable antenna

 Antenna on Tango 2 is fixed, there is no SMA connection (unless you put one one that can be purchased separately). It can be folded close to shell but when its set vertically it can act as radio stand. Neat feature 

Switches (or shall I say buttons)

Unlike most conventional radios on the market, Tango 2 has buttons acting as switches.  No more broken switches I guess (happened to me many times before !) 

Number of switches should be enough for most pilots

User interface and screen

TBS managed to squeeze very tiny screen letting you to configure OpenTX, set the models, channels, crossfire options and so on. It’s monochrome – little bit like the screen found on Crossfire TX „big” module but slightly larger.

Unfortunately I have noticed that some OpenTX messages didn’t fit on the screen and partially were not displayed.

Below the screen there is super bright status LED. There is no way to adjust the brightness (unless its changed in the future firmware update), so reading the screen in dark conditions is a bit of a struggle.

There are 3 buttons and one scroll wheel used to navigation through radio menus. It doesn’t take long to get used to the layout.

Build in crossfire

Tango 2 has built-in Crossfire Micro TX and there is no bay at the back to fit external receivers. Crossfire only. This means simplified communication via LUA script and no more „mods” to get the full speed baud rate when using LUA scripts and telemetry.
To access the Crossfire menu you need to press MENU button once and it’s on the first page.

Freedom TX

Tango 2 comes flashed with FreedomTX which is OpenTX fork customised by TBS and is OpenSource. Interface and settings are accessible via screen. It’s pretty much the same OpenTX most of FPV pilots is already familiar with. 

User serviceable 

It takes 6 screws to open back plate and to access Tango 2 internals. Battery, gimbals are user serviceable so they can be removed if required. 

Battery is completely removable. It’s held in place by strong velcro patch

MicroSD card is not accessible without radio disassembly.

Compared to other transmitters and PS3 gamepad (Photos only)

Using Tango 2 – my impressions

I will make positive points first:

1./ Build quality is excellent. Tango 2 is manufactured in China but nothing squeaks or cracks and transmitter feels very solid.

2./ Smaller form factor is the most noticeable and at least in my case it changed how I pack and travel with FPV gear. It’s so light that it’s easy to forget that you carry a radio transmitter on your neck during flight session : )

3./ Now I will make an important statement: Tango 2 is hands down the best transmitter when it comes to handling in my opinion. I am by no means a TBS fanboy but I take full responsibility for above statement : ) It feels amazing in hands. I am a hybrid pincher and had no issues when using it that way. It fits pinchers and thumbers too. Worth mentioning is that Tango 2 is perfectly balanced when handing on the lanyard. No additional tweaks are needed.

4./ Gimbals feel solid. I didn’t even have to adjust the stick height, it was good out of the box. Worth mentioned – those are full size hall effect gimbals for better precision. They are spaced little bit closed than other transmitters due to the smaller form factor but they still feel very nice.

5./ Folding antenna –  moving it in horizontal or vertical position works without a problem. Using it as a radio stand – brilliant idea.

6./ Switches –  this is my favourite part because they work really well! On the other hand It’s also a little bit of learning curve because, so far using toggle switches is like a muscle memory. 

I only fly FPV wings and my assignment (as an example) is:

  • A button for Arming 
  • D button for RTH
  • B switch for various things like autolaunch for instance
  • C switch for flight modes
  • F switch for buzzer

7./ Tango 2 can be charged by USB-C port – pretty easy to charge from laptop in the field for instance. Very convenient

It’s not all unicorns and flowers, there is a list of things I didn’t like about Tango 2:

1./  OpenTX general issues. After testing I noticed some OpenTX messages were not completely displayed on the screen because of its size. Im sure this can be fixed by OpenTX team but at the time being it looks like glitch.
Also I was unable to set the date in the system for instance and setting was erased after reboot

2./ Standard versus Pro. Foldable stick are a great addition – stop making the Standard version!  🙂 Also I’d expect at least a carrying case as an extra with Pro version. One of those cases would make a better justification for spending more on Pro too.

3./ 250mW maximum output power for crossfire. 250mW power is plenty for most plots but long range pilots would welcome having option for little bit more. I don’t know if its ia hardware limitation or it is possible to get more power but having more is always better right ? 🙂

4./ Supplied lanyard is simply too short. I had to use longer replacement because there was no way to move Tango 2 lower with the neck strap from the box.

5./ One thing I noticed with the A and D large buttons is that when they are pressed the edge around it on the shell is pretty sharp and you can feel it by your finger. Would have been nice if there was a little more fillet etc. on that part of shell.

6./ Super bright LED. It’s difficult to read the screen with the LED on. Trappy already mentioned that this will get adjusted in the future software release though so hopefully it won be an issue soon.

7./ Rubber grip at the back is nice but it’s rather flushed with the surface of the transmitter. It would have been nice if it was slightly more substantial for even nicer feeling.

8./ The antenna mount is a bit plasticky and it seems like it wont take much to crack the plastic / break it. Some reinforced material would be nice in that specific location to make sure it doesn’t break easy.

Final word, yay or nay?

Tango 2 is a definitely yay from me. It’s smaller, feels good in hands, easier to carry, has crossfire built in, OpenTX, and foldable sticks – good features making flying FPV little bit more pleasurable experience : )

If you’re not an extreme long range pilot requiring 2 Watts of power for your radio Tango 2 should be good enough for most flying scenarios.

E-Wings experience

For almost a year I’ve had a chance to fly FPV wings designed and made by Ewan Harwood from E-Wings – Scotland based pilot who decided to make his own aircrafts and sell them to masses.
I have built and flew every single wing Ewan has designed and also I helped him with beta testing. In this article I will put my thoughts on each of the wing to shed some light on their flying properties and so on. Let’s get started!

Vortigaunt (Vorti)


This was my first E-Wings creation purchased as an upgrade from AR Wing which reached it’s limit of crash resistance ha ha (see my previous post for details).
It is 1200mm big bird with generous fuselage holding compartments  for components and large battery, both of which are super spacious giving lots of options during the build.

My Vorti setup:

Turnigy SK3 3536 1400kv with 8×6 Graupner prop
60A YEP ESC
Matek F405 Wing
M8N GPS
Crossfire Nano RX
RunCam Eagle
GoPro Session/ Hero 7
Multistar 5200mah 4S

How does it fly? If I could use one description it would be “flying bus”. It is a large wing and gives very stable flying performance. Wind does very little to the overall stability so it’s perfect wing for unpredictable flying conditions.
I flew Vorti in 30mph gusts and I noticed that I was being pushed off the course but there was no additional shakes etc often visible on smaller wings during windy weather.
Due to it’s size and lack my neat wing building skills it turned out on a heavy side. 5200mah 4S packs gives me rather modest flight times of around 10-15 minutes but it’s by no means a slow cruise. Vorti can do around 160km/h easy but large motor consumes amps easily because it’s not a light aircraft. Mine including battery weights around 1.6kg.

Who is Vorti best for?
Vorti is without a doubt best suitable for more experienced pilots who like to have very stable aircraft that can go fast.

Below few flight videos from Vorti:



 

Firefly


This is a different style of wing to Vorti. It has 1000mm wing span (same as Mini Drak) but battery bay is big enough to accommodate Multistar/Turnigy 5200mah 4S LiPo which is great bonus.
It is a very versatile wing suitable for general flying as well as long range adventures.

My Firefly setup:
SunnySky 2216 1400kv with 8×6
YEP 40A ESC
Matek F405 Wing
Crossfire Nano RX
Partom 1.2Ghz / TBS Unify VTX (I switched between the two)
RunCam Eagle 2
Turnigy TGY9018 Servos
Multistar 4S 5200mah

How does it fly? Firefly flying performance depends on the motor choice but the one I chosen for this wing gave me very fast performance while maintaining good efficiency throughout. I clocked 165km/h with this wing so far. Average amperage was lower than Vorti so I was getting slightly better flight times on the same battery (5200mah 4S), purely because Firefly is simply smaller.
Firefly is very stable in the air – very similar to Mini Drak although it is not as agile as MD because of a different wing style.

Who’s Firefly best for?
Firefly in my opinion is a very versatile wing, suitable for beginners as well as advanced pilots.

Below few flight videos from Firefly:


Vortini

Here comes the recent addition to the E-Wings family -> Vortini. It’s Vorti little brother or child if you wish 🙂 Scaled down version of the mighty Vorti. Ewan asked me if I could do some test flying / beta testing this little bird so I was actually flying Vortini No. 00001 weeks before it was actually released! Lucky guy am I? 🙂
Anyways, Vortini is approximately 690mm small wing that can be build to meet 250g weight restriction (proven by GizFPV).

It has pretty generous battery bay but components compartment i rather small so bet suited for tiny bits like Matek F411. Please bear in mind that I didn’t get the final revision of Vortini, so my flying experience is purely based on the prototype kit I was flying.

My Vortini was not built with weight saving in mind so I ended up with rather heavy aircraft. I have started this build to be run on 2S and F20 T-MOtor with 4″ prop but it didnt even lift so after testing 3-4 different motors and props I settled with 3S batteries and F80 motor + 7″ prop. That gave me plenty of speed (120km/h tops) and pretty good efficiency (cruising at 4A and 50-60km/h). My aircraft has RunCam Split 2S fitted at the front as a second camera just for HD so I am still able to get HD footage of decent quality.

My Vortini setup:
T-Motor F80 1900kv + APC 7×5
LittleBee 35A Blheli_32
Matek F411 Wing
Crossfire Nano RX
TBS Unify Pro SE
Emax ES9051 4.1g Digital Servo
RunCam Phoenix „Oscar Liang” FPV camera
RunCam Split 2S HD Camera
3S 1550-2200mah

How does it fly? Vortini has the smallest wingspan out of all wings I talked about and as a result it doesn’t fly as stable as the bigger siblings but….with really calm weather it is possible to get this bird on rails. Overall I find Vortini stability in the air to be even better than popular AR Wing which is 900mm!
It doesn’t take much effort at all to launch it which is huge bonus. You can fly that thing for a long distance as well as do close proximity fast flying.
One note worth mentioning – Centre of Gravity (COG) location has big impact on performance. It should be around 1-1.5cm from the wing front edge. If it’s shifted to the back Vortini will show “pitch jumping” which is super annoying.

Who’s Vortini best for?
This is easy question – for pretty much everyone. It’s great for long range pilots as well as occasional close proximity wing fliers. Depending on the setup it can be super lightweight as well as more powerful with big prop – all depends.

Below few flight videos from Vortini:





Summary

I wrote about Ewan’s wings in the same order I got the build. Vortini is one of it’s kind with fantastic stability. Firefly can be easily treated as Mini Drak alternative for those who need cheaper wing but offering similar performance. Vortini, as the smallest here offers a lot in a small form. In my opinion E-Wings aircrafts offer wide variety of flight performance and everyone can find one that would suit the most.

(I can tell you a secret: my favourite one is Vortini 🙂 ) 

Miniquad guy flies FPV Wings

Miniquad guy flies FPV Wings

I thought about this article for a long time now. My idea was to tell the story, explain the reasons for choosing to fly FPV Wings and to describe the process of switching. Hopefully my journey will shed some light for those who want to start flying FPV on an aircraft that has (usually) just one motor 🙂

Why on earth one would want to fly wings?

My reason for wings was simple – I was never into flying quad between flags and gates. Partially because of lack of time for constant practice sessions, also it become very boring to me over time. I even stopped watching racing clips on social media etc. Boring boring boring.

What I wanted to do was to fly in its purest form which is – straight forward 🙂 Flying mini quads is kind of pushing the pilot to change flight direction all the time, to do lots of YAW movement, to flip, to roll, to go through gaps, to the point where it becomes more of a „jumping in the air” contest or „trick show”.

Flying just for sake of flying is actually very enjoyable and relaxing. It’s pure chill, also I could fly for longer distance and just enjoy the views.

Before I decided I wanted flying wing I looked at the last strong argument – drones are not always positively recognised in places where we normally fly. Fixed wing aircrafts on the other hand make people more curious and less angry. Old school RC flying was all about planes and not multi rotors, drones, whatever you call it.

I decided to go for it and I built my first wing.

My First wing choice

There is many wings to choose from. I wanted to utilise mini quad parts I already had and was looking for something to buy in UK shop upfront. I’ve chosen AR Wing sold by HobbyRC. Aircraft cost was around £50 with postage. Plan was to use the following parts:

  • ZMX 2207 2140kv motor with 6×4 prop
  • Aikon 30A BlheliS ESC
  • Matek F405 FC
  • TBS Unify HV
  • TBS Crossfire
  • GPS
  • RunCam Swift V2
  • 2 x MetalGear 9g Servos
  • 1300/1500mah 4S lipos used in mini quads

AR Wing has lots of space inside for electronics. Also I was able to push ESC, 5V Servo BEC inside bay in front of the motor. It didn’t look pretty (see photos) but worked. I was able to fit 2 x 1300mah 4S lipos in parallel too.

First attempts

It was almost year ago in November 2017 and we were heading with kids to Scottish highlands for the weekend. My wing was ready and I decided to take it with me for a maiden in epic location.

During my first launch what the wing did was just going own hitting the ground with the nose. Each throw was unsuccessful. The more I was throwing the more damaged it caused to the front section. Decided to put the wing down and fly quads instead. Later on I checked that prop was put incorrectly on the motor.

As a result there was no push and wing didnt fly because it couldn’t fly without any thrust 🙂 Lesson learned the hard way. Back to the bench for repairs.

Next try was month later after our local FPV race. My each throw was cracking the aircraft frame, also I nearly lost both wingless as a result of that. This time I’ve asked someone to throw the wing for me because I still couldn’t do it.

Wing launched and I flew! It flew for about 20-30 seconds before someone turned on his quad and instead of being my wing I saw his FPV feed in my goggles 🙂

Maiden footage:

My next try was during quick lunch session. I launched it myself. I was in LOS for a moment when my phone rang and I got distracted. Lost control and went straight into ground. Wing cracked almost in half and I destroyed the front HD camera attachment.

Back in business

After that unfortunate flight I have glued the wing back and left it for months only to come back to action during summer 2018 during my holidays in Poland.

I gave it a try again. There are some nice open fields 50km east of Kraków where we’ve got a house.  Weather was nice and I tried to launch it again and again till I got it right. What was crucial was COG (Centre Of Gravity). I have set it correctly by putting the small stones to the front of the wing 🙂 It worked!

Footage:

 

Wing flew very smooth. I tried ANGLE mode first but then ACRO (with gyro) and that’s how I fly it now.

Few days later my mate managed to record our 6am chase video with his quad: Wing chase

During visit to my parents house I flew my wing there too. Even got it stack on the tree 🙂

Those successful summer flights got me thinking that wing was a good choice. It suits my flying style, it gives me a lot of fun and satisfaction from flight.

I’ve made a small cut at the bottom of my AR to allow for better grip when launching. I still don’t know how to launch a wing by holding the actual wing as weird it may seems. I only toss it by holding the bottom of fuselage.

 

I watched a lot of YouTube footage from folks flying bigger wings. What appealed to me was that bigger wing meant more stable flight, even in windy conditions.

My AR was perfect on a calm day:

With the strong wind my flight was like this one:

 

That was enough reason to build another one 🙂

Second wing

One would say: „With bigger wing comes bigger responsibility” and that’s the truth 🙂 Those are a different pair of shoes. Also I couldn’t use my mini quad parts there any more which brought some challenges because of my lack of knowledge of parts that were not in mini quad world 🙂

After speaking to Greg on FPV Scotland he suggested checking new wing from E-Wings (local Scottish manufacturer) called Vortigaunt. At first I couldn’t even spell it’s name and quickly started referring to this wing as Vorti.

I’ve ordered a kit incuding everything required to build it and also got the laminate to make it nice. Ewan – Ewings owner is a very helpful and nice chap. Him and Greg talked me over the parts needed for this project and the final part list looked like that:

  • Vorti wing
  • Turnigy SK3 3536 1450kv motor
  • Graupner 8×5 prop
  • YEP 60A ESC
  • Matek F450 wing FC
  • Turnigy MG 12g servos
  • RunCam Eagle 2
  • TBS Crossfire
  • 1.3Ghz for video (Partom from BG)
  • Multistar 5200mah 4S battery

I entered totally unknown territory when it comes to parts, also this wing required assembling which was totally new to me. AR wing didnt required that much of work.

Also I used 1.3Ghz for video here so needed to make a ground station with 5.8Ghz repeater to my goggles:

 

It took my over a week, working on Vorti in the evenings when kids were in beds 🙂 I watched Gregs video about assembling Vorti. He has made the whole series: E-Wings UK Vortigaunt FPV Build Series | Part 1 | Fuselage & Wings

Vorti was laminated, glued, and made nice. I’ve gotten few 3D prints with the lipo tray and camera „nose”. It was a long process required a lot of DIY.

What I liked about this wing was the separate bays for FC/ESC etc and the lipo bay. Vorti offers tons of space for building – another advantage of bigger wings.

TOP TIP: for laminating you can just use your house iron set to lower temperature.

First big wing flight

Maiden day came through. Conditions were nice, all systems working in place, servos passed „high five” and I was mentally ready to launch that thing of beauty into the sky.

And I did. At least I tried, because what happened was this:

The core of the failure was that I set throws too much .They were wayyy too much and even my slightest stick movement was causing wing to be very unstable – impossible to fly properly. Vorti was smashed during landing upside down and one wing was slightly detached.

I’ve done necessary repairs and was ready for second try a week after. This time I have adjusted servo throws, added expo and reduced servo rates. All seemed to work on the bench. During second flight it launched properly but I have had an impression that motor wasn’t producing enough trust at all (compared to my AR Wing). I launched it regardless and after 20-30 meters it didnt have power for more lift and smashed the ground hard.

Damaged was eyesore:

After conversation with Ewan (Vorti designer) we came to conclusion that lack fo trust was the biggest failure here and that was caused by the ESC default setting which is „HELI” setting allowing for different throttle curve, called „slow start”. At the moment I am in the process of repairing Vorti and once thats done will have third take and I am expecting nothing but good from that wing 🙂

THIS ARTILE WILL BE UPDATED AS THE STORY CONTINUES 🙂

Brother Hobby SpeedShield 2207.5 1750kv motor review

BrotherHobby Speed Shield 2207.5 1750kv motors review

SpeedSheld is BrotherHobby new series of 2207.5 motors and I’ve had an opportunity to test the 1750kv version.

They can be purchased from GetFPV or local suppliers depending on availability.

Testing motor samples were supplied by Brother Hobby.

Specs

Speed Shield motors have one size – 2207.5 but they have quite few available KV options:

  • 1750
  • 2108
  • 2400
  • 2700
  • 3400

As you can see some of the KV options are a bit „extreme” 🙂 I have chosen 1750v „low KV” to test because I feel there is a hole in the market for that speck of motors, predominantly made for 6”or 7” cruisers but also for high voltage racers with 5” props. Unfortunately I don’t have such racing setup and I only checked the long range cruise option with those motors.

Speed Shield come with titanium alloy hollow shaft, Japanese NMB 9x4x4mm bearing, 7075 aluminium bell, N52H arc magnets, support 4-6S voltage and weight around 32g out of the box (around 29g with shorter wires).

At closer look

Motors are packed in the plain and simple box as any other BH motors I’ve seen.

From the first look they feel like a premium product. Finish and material quality is very good. They come with around 16cm of 20AWG wires. When spun by hand they are very smooth. The magent resistance is not as strong as previous returner R3 series though. Bearings are smooth and quiet. Shaft is held by a screw as opposed to C-clip still commonly used in motors.

What’s interesting with those motors is that the bell design is very different to any of the previous motors done by Brother Hobby – they are made to look like Captain’s America shield. Even colours are the same. Big plus for all the Marvel fans out there 🙂

Motor Testing and flight performance

I was extensively testing Speed Shields on my 7” cruiser:

  • TBS Source One 7”
  • KISS FC V1
  • KISS 32A ESC
  • TBS FPVision
  • TBS GPS
  • TBS Crossfire
  • GoPro Session
  • various 4S and 5S lipos
  • Gemfan 7042 props (my personal favourites for 7”)

Prior to testing this motor I’ve had R3 2206 1720kv installed on this particular machine.

So what was the flight performance of this motor? What can I say – I really like it. It was smooth from the first second. No visible oscillations in FPV feed and GoPro footage was clear! That was really good bearing in mind that it was 7” quad and they are really hard to tune and to get satisfactory footage.

1750kv is a little bit higher KV for 7” meaning that it can make quad flying fast but at the cost of higher amperage. That was a case here. I was cruising at around 70-80km/h using around 13-15 amps on 4S. With 5S amps draped by around 3 and this is actually my recommended voltage but it didn’t feel slow with 4S either.

My quad felt very responsive and the overall flying experience was very pleasant. 7” machine is all about having good cruise without any of that freestyle nonsense moves and in my opinion SpeedShields can be used for that purpose without any issue.

Flying footage

My two flying videos:

 

Conclusion

Time to gather positives and things to improve about Speed Shields

Good things about Speed Shield motor:

  • good build and materials quality
  • reasonable price
  • they are smooth!
  • good performance on 7” with 1750kv
  • interesting bell design with the Captains America shield
  • no C-clip

Things to improve:

  • can we get Iron Man bell design please? : )

BrotherHobby yet again came out with an interesting motor for mini quads. Good build quality with reasonable price plus smooth flying performance – that’s exactly what one would expect from a good motor.

Flyduino KISS 25A 2-5S ESCs (single and 4in1) review

I’ve been flying Flyduino KISS products ever since I bought their first Flight Controller (V1) and 24A Race ESCs back in 2016. Last year I have tried their newer products: 32A ESC and KISS FC V2, so I’ve got good knowledge regarding their flying properties and performance.

This time I will take a look at the latest ESCs from Flyduino:

  • KISS 2-5S 25A single
  • KISS 2-5S 25A 4in1

Testing samples were kindly supplied by Flyduino.

KISS 2-5S 25A

Main features

  • 12 x 26mm and weights 3g
  • 32-Bit-ARM Cortex M4 MCU running at 80 MHz
  • Supporting 2S to 5S LiPo
  • Max continuous current 25A, protective current limiting of max 40A
  • Dshot 100-2400, Oneshot42 and Oneshot125
  • Turtle mode, 3D mode and rotation direction change supported
  • sinHybrid for smoother performance
  • Motors „talking feature”

ESCs come without any wires, so you might need to purchase them separately to avoid surprise. That’s how it always been with KISS ESCs.

25A ESCs are noticeable smaller than previous generations: 24A and 32A which shared the same form factor. New ones are better suitable for compact builds or frames with thing arms.

At closer look

New ESCs are made from a separate PCBs stacked together as it appears on the photos. Soldering pads are small but still comfortable enough to solder. 3 FETs are at the bottom along with current sensor.

 

Compared to 32A ESC?

All features of 32A are incorporated in 25A ones apart from the obvious continuous current value. Form factor change is the biggest difference as far as I can tell.

32A versus 25A (heatshrinked)

Depending on the thickness of wires soldered to ESC the weight reduction between 25A and 32A, considering the size difference was around 1g.

KISS 2-5S 25A 4in1

New 25A 4in1 is essentially four single 25A ESCs fitted on one PCB. Features are the same between single and 4in1 version.

4in1 weights around 12g.

 

At closer look

25A 4in ESC has XT-60 pigtail pads, motors signal pads and socket allowing for connection with KISS FC and also soldering pads to motor signals plus additional VBAT pads.

Motors are numbered as per KISS standards meaning front left is 1 and rest follows clockwise. Numbers are written on the board so it has to be installed in a specific orientation.

I am not aware if it is actually possible to remap the motors on KISS though. M3 holes spacing is 30mm exactly so when this ESC is fitted into the standard frame using 30.5 you might want to use a file to make the holes little bit bigger.

It is the same as with KISS FC where holes never match perfectly because of that 0.5mm difference.

 

Installation

I used my current build based on DemonRC Blaze frame and fitted 4in1 in there. Apart from the mounting holes adjustments there was no issues. I used longer screws to make sure there was enough thread for the soft mounting bobbins and stacked KISS FC V1 on top.

To connect ESC signals with FC I used supplied harness, although it is (unnecessarily) pretty long wires so I had to fly them in-between ESC and FC. VTX power was taken from directly from ESC Lipo pads and FC power from VBAT pads.

Initial power-on revealed that ESC is flashed with the voice firmware, so it „talks” when you power the quad on.

Flight performance tests

KISS 25A single ESC was fitted in the 6” Reverb

Specs:

  • ImpulseRC 6” Reverb
  • ImpulseRC ReverbPDB
  • NorthAero 2207.5 2450kv
  • KISS FC V2
  • KISS 25A ESC
  • TBS Unify
  • TBS Crossfire
  • RunCam Swift V2
  • Turnigy Graphene 1300 4S
  • HQ 5.5x4x3

It is a great cruiser quad and previously it did have KISS 32A esc installed.

I have tested various props but found that HQ 5.5” are the best for smooth footage. New 25A escs fit Reverb arms so much better than previous 32A and nothing was sticking out of the arm.

So how was the flight performance? I won’t going to lie – it was great.

Very smooth since the first second in the air. I didn’t even have to re-adjust pids (which were only increased slightly from stock). Performance was „sharp”, rolls and flips had no bounce backs. I feel that KISS ESC performance has the best out of the box effect compared to any other ESCs and firmwares I’ve tried over the years.

KISS 25A 4in1 ESC was fitted in 5” DemonRC Blaze

Specs:

  • DemonRC Blaze
  • NorthAero 2207.5 2650kv
  • KISS FC V1
  • KISS 25A 4in1 ESC
  • TBS Unify
  • TBS Crossfire
  • RunCam Sparrow Micro V2
  • Turnigy Graphene 1300 4S
  • HQ 5×4.5×3 V1S

I had HelioFC and Blheli32 ESCs installed on the machine prior to this test with KISS. It was never performing as I would hoped for. Ive had all sort of oscillations and weird things going on.
ButterFlight works well on my 7” cruiser but here I simply couldn’t get it to work or I was doing some user errors with filter settings etc. I don’t know, maybe it was my fault.

First flight with 4in1 ESC literarily dropped my jaw to the ground – it flew sooo nice. Very „sharp”, no oscillations, absolutely no trace of vibrations in the footage and butter smooth performance.

Please bear in mind Ive had „old” KISS FC V1 installed because I didn’t have V2 spare for this test. Blaze flew great again and I have made few clips from the flight footage to show it.

Flight Videos

 

 

 

 

 

Conclusion

25A single ESC
Positives:

  • Butter smooth performance
  • All features of 32A ESC but in a smaller form
  • Improved form factor for frames with narrow arms (fits perfect to Reverb)
  • Supports up to 5S
  • ESC telemetry

Negatives:

  • Price. I wish they were a bit cheaper
  • No wires included and they need to be purchases separately (always a case with KISS ESCs)

25A 4in1 ESC
Positives:

  • Butter smooth performance
  • 41in form factor so possible to use with stacked builds
  • Supports up to 5S
  • ESC telemetry

Negatives

  • Price. I wish they were a bit cheaper
  • No wires included and they need to be purchases separately (always a case with KISS ESCs)
  • Included wire harness is a bit too long, I think 5cm would have been enough
  • No plug’n’play solution for powering the KISS FC off the ESC since there is no second socket (similar like on Alien Steele PDB). I had to solder the VBAT to KISS FC directly

New KISS 25A ESCs are a good option for those who want a very smooth flight performance with minimum fuss and configuration required to make it to work.
Smaller form factor is a great bonus, also having 4in1 option is good too.

My biggest complain however is the price still. I understand this is a top quality products but competition isn’t sitting tight and ESC proces dropped over the last few years. If it was a bit cheaper that would be a massive bonus.

Also worth mentioning – new ESCs worked well with new Reverb PDB I was testing but that’s for another article 🙂

Testing TBS SourceOne 7″ (Trappy’s quad)

In May 2018 TeamBlackSheep announced an „open source frame” called Source One.
Raphael „Trappy” Pirker offered sending his own Source One 7” version across for testing purposes and in this article I will take you through testing and share my thoughts about it.

Open Source Project

Source One files are available via GitHub

It is very unusual project in FPV world where frame design is basically shared to the people to make it better. At the same time frame at the current revision is being sold under the TBS brand for very cheap  – around £25 in UK – same price as the chinese’s no-name or cloned frames!
Very different approach to the frame design compared to anything else currently on the market currently.
My colleague and fellow blogger Philipp Seidel is the guy who manage this project.

Source One 7” RTF

Source One quad I was testing had the following specs:

Frame: Source One with 7” (6mm thick) arms

Motors: TBS Endurance

ESC: Flycolor 30A 2-4S blheli-s dshot

Flight Controller: TBS Colibri Race

Video Transmitter: TBS FPVision with TBS Triumphs

RX: TBS Crossfire Nano with Immortal-T antenna

FPV Camera: TBS ZeroZero (replaced by me with RunCam Swift V2)

Quad came completely ready to fly, so I had to bind my radio with crossfire nano and it was all ready to go. Trappy mentioned during TBS couch episode that he crashed this quad from rather high altitude and I saw the marks on arms ends  🙂 FPV camera wasn’t working properly so I replaced it before my first flight. I can only assume it stopped working after the crash.

Lipo on this particular machine is meant to be attached at the bottom. S1 came with Ethix lipo strap and battery landing protector taken from Oblivion – clever solution. There are also foam pads isolating battery from the frame.

Immortal-T antenna was attached to the underside of the arms by 3D print. Video pigtail antenna was also attached to the frame by 3D print and zip ties. Very neat and functional .

Source One with 4S 2200mah lipo attached weights 664g.  Around 750g with GoPro Session 5 and 3D printed GoPro mount.

Frame quality

I can’t say a bad word about carbon fibre quality in this frame. Top plate is 2mm thick, bottom plate 3mm and arms have impressive 6mm thickness. Plates looks very solid and I haven’t seen any imperfections in carbon fibre or anything that would indicate cheap quality or cutting corners.

Frame is very very stiff thanks to thick arms

Testing

Before flying Source One I’ve added a GoPro mount and TBS GPS puck. I had to make the BST splitter harness.

Also, in addition I’ve added the 25V 470uf caps to all ESCs. It was fitted just in case to remove unwanted electric noise.

Flycolor ESCs dictated lipo voltage I could use and it was 4S maximum. Normally I fly 5S on my 7” Reverb but I gave it a go.

Test lipos:

  • Turnigy Graphene 1500mah 4S and
  • Turnigy (blue, cheap) 2200mah 4S

Firmware: Butterflight 3.5.1 / Betaflight 3.3

Test props:

  • HQ 7×3.5×3
  • HQ 7×4.5
  • Gemfan Flash 7042

In my tests Betaflight performed better actually. Strangely enough quad experienced much less oscillations. Don’t ask me how 🙂 I have flown in both cases with all filters on and PT1 enabled. ButterFlight had fast-kalman turned on.

With HQ 7×3.5×3 quad was shaking pretty bad. There was no jello in the footage, just shakes. PID tuning, filters had no impact on that.

After putting HQ 7×4.5 on I have immediately noticed that shakes were gone and I had a silky smooth footage on that one.

Gemfan 7042 gave me a little bit of visible oscillations (in FPV cam and GOPro footage) but it wasn’t too bad overall.

HQ 7×4.5 (strangely) won this test. On this prop quad was flying „sharp” if you know what I mean. I enjoyed it.

As for flight times. I had 11 minutes from 2200mah pack when pulling 8-10amps and with cruise speed of around 50km/h

I managed to fly 7-8 minutes on 1500mah 4S  pulling the same amount of amps.

Those were very satisfying flight times. Looks to me that it is possible to have 15-20minutes flight time with 3000 or 4000mah lipo. I haven’t got one that big yet, so can’t prove it though.

Flying experience with this machine depends greatly on props used but overall, compared to my other 7” rig I was very satisfied with it. Endurance motors are not super powerful but this is not actually needed in the machine that is made for a mellow cruise and not floppy floppy ripping 🙂

Oscillations are common on 7” builds but the right prop / motor combination can make it to work. Oddly enough I had nothing but just bad experience with HQ 7×3.5×3 on this quad. Maybe there is a weird resonance between frame and that prop on Endurance motors causing it? I don’t know – it simply didn’t work for me.

Flight video will be posted as soon as I get some nice material to share.

Conclusion

I would like to say big thanks to Trappy for sending his quad across to Scotland for testing. This allowed me for first hand experience available before frame even hit the shops.

Overall I was happy with how it flies and there will be more flights (and videos) published here as the summer goes on.
It is great to have a frame at this price point and with such good quality. It may not be to everyones taste when it comes to look but design DXF file is available to download so literally everyone can make it to desired look. Sky is the limit 🙂

To the Source (Infinity) and beyond! / Buzz Lightyear – Toy Story

Cheap motors perform well? RobotDog RD2205 2500kv review

I’ve had an opportunity to take a look at the 9$ motors being sold by FPV Model – > RobotDog RD2206 2500kv.

What is so special with those motors? Price for sure. It is around £6-7 which is half price of the cheapest motors in UK shops.

Specs

Stator diameter: 22mm
Stator heigh: 5mm
KV: 2500
Weight with long wires: 28g

At close look

RobotDog motors despite low price have (surprisingly) premium feel. Shaft is held by a C-clip. Material feels solid. Bell has thick cooling fins and coils are winded nicely. Motor feels smooth when spun by hand.
They come with 11cm length wires.

Magnets don’t have too much resistance and it would be fair to compare their resistance to Lumenier RX2206 2350kv which were my favourite smooth motors for a long time.

There is no vertical play in the bell at all.

Test quad

I have tested motors on my 5” „Steele” Alien

Specs:

  • KISS 32A Esc
  • KISS FC V2
  • ImmersionRC Tramp VTX
  • RunCam Swift V2
  • Crossfire Micro RX V2
  • Turnigy Graphene 4S 1300mah
  • HQ 5×4.5×2

After flight impressions

I flew over my usual flying spot – open space fields. Motors performed very well. They were very very smooth. There was no shakes or oscillations during the flight (I had some on the same setup with LeDrib motors for instance). Low end of the throttle had plenty power. On the other hand when punched (above 60% throttle) motors were not that much powerful. It comes down to the stator heigh and 5mm is not enough for motors to be very powerful. My flight was snappy enough but was lacking that extra kick you get with 7mm stator motors.

I had some bounce backs on that setup and that definitely needs tuning to get rid of.

I was getting almost 4 minutes of pretty snappy cruise and acro flying. When I pushed more throttle battery lasted me 2 minutes.

On average I have seen between 13-17amps and even 30 when punched.

My flight video:

Conclusion

Positives:

  • Price! Only 9.99$ (£7.5) which is around half of what motors usually cost
  • Low weight
  • Excellent build quality
  • Very smooth when spun by hand and in the air
  • Efficient

Negatives

  • Stator could have been taller to give more of top end speed
  • Mine came without the bolts for some reason

My summary:

I didn’t know what to expect from motor as cheap as this but after the test flight I was  positively surprised. Very smooth performance and great efficiency.

I can’t comment on durability at this stage though. Will update this post after more testing.

RobotDog motors can be recommended for those who want to build on budget as well as for new pilots just getting into the hobby. They are cheap enough to replace when needed. On the other hand I wish they could have been made with a taller stator and somehow low price or at least at similar level. That would make them even better choice.

Getting smooth footage on 7″ quad

I’ve built my first 7” mini quad few months ago. First flights were pretty rough when it comes to performance and fight times. Ever since I built it I tested numerous motors, props and battery combinations and finally found the good solution that gave me smooth footage. One of my colleagues – Kamil Bujniewicz (kbfpv – well known smooth freestyle pilot and absolute genius when it comes to PID tuning) commented my recent video recorded on 7incher „awesome and smooth as far as 7” prop can go goes”. His words mean business 🙂

In this write up I will explain the steps that I took to achieve the satisfying footage smoothness from 7” machine.

My initial 7” setup

InIn  the past I was flying 6” Alien frame with 7” arms. It was just my modified favourite 6incher I used for about 2 years.

This machine was my first 7” experience. I’ve put TBS FPVision with Colibri FC on it + Crossfire micro RX. Motors of choice were ZMX X40 2608 1500kv prototypes I had around for testing.
Prop of choice was HQ 7×4.5 and HQ 7×4 because these two were the only ones available back then. First few test flights was pretty much bumpy ride and it didnt go well.

In the meantime my quad configuration changed few times. Nothing proved to work properly to be honest. There was always some oscillations but also weird yaw twitches I was getting.

I was never happy about how it flew, it seemed like a constant work in progress.

My current setup

After changing pretty much all bits apart from FPVision+Colibri+Crossfire I ended up with this:

  • Frame: ImpulseRC Reverb + 7” arms
  • Motors: ZMX X40 2608 1500kv
  • ESC: Spedix 35A blheli32 2-6S
  • FC: TBS Colibri Race v2 (hard mounted)
  • VTX: TBS FPVision
  • RX: TBS Crossfire
  • FPV Camera: RunCam Swift V2
  • Lipo: 5S between 1500 to 3000mah
  • Prop: Gemfan 7042 (for now)

Let me take you through the choice of components.

FRAME

I have chosen Reverb because it was a little bit lighter than Alien but also it is very robust and stiff construction. Flex is kept to absolute minimum. Reverb has definitely lower profile than Alien but still plenty space inside and easy for upgrades. I have been using ImpulseRC frames for years and I am huge fan of their design work work.

MOTORS

I was lucky enough to be able to test X40 motors ever since they appeared on the market. Huge beasts @ 40g per motor. They are massive compared to typical 2207 motor. 26mm diameter and 8mm stator hight means business. Those motors deliver a lot of power even at low throttle. I  also used some 2206 1400kv motors (TBS Endurance and BrotherHobby ones)  for comparison but they were lacking power on my, rather heavy quad. This was not a case with X40s. I can’t back up my choice by any science but they just felt right on my quad and lack of power was the least of my concerns here.

ESCs

Let’s face it, most current ESC on the market are very similar. I went with well priced Spedix. 35Amps seemed all right. Blheli32 is also very smooth, so my choice was simple. Good performers ? Hell yes. No need for a change.

FC

Colibri wasn’t actually my choice but it came bundled with TBS FPVision. It is TBS own FC running F3. It integrates very well with power cube/FPVision, so I couldn’t choose anything else really. Solid performer despite F3 processor (old tech? nah…).

VTX

As a long term TBS Unify user I didnt change that. FPVision has Unify under the hood with add on of TBS integrated OSD etc. Great piece of kit. Current sensor comes calibrated out fo the box (yeah!) and it also allows for connecting external GPS to get flight info in OSD. Its my favourite piece of kit recently. Worth every penny.

RX

This machine was meant to fly far so I could either choose FrSky R9 or Crossfire. I personally prefer Crossfire because its trusted and simply more reliable system. Choice was simple. Crossfire win here for me.

FPV Camera

Camera doesn’t help with smooth footage but helps with how you see where you fly. I always used Runcams and Swift V2 is my choice and has been for a long time.

Lipo

After using 4S and 5S on the same setup I came to a conclusion that 5S handles heavier quad better. I am getting around 8 minutes on 5S 1500mah and 13-15 on 3000mah. All depends of course how I fly. Those times are for fast cruise @ around 60-70km/h and around 10A current.

Props

I have tried new Gemfans Flash 7042 after recommendation and looked no further. Those are twin blades (easier to carry), super quiet, almost like a stealth mode when flying around and give best footage. I may try different props and probably will, but for now gemfans blown me away. Can you imaging I am still on their first set and been for over 3-4 months now ? 🙂 I have never ever balanced those props. They even have few chips on them!

Tricks for smooth footage?

There is few things that made my quad flying smooth and improved the footage.

1./ ND filter

It’s not a secret that ND filter helps with jello on the flight cameras. It simply worked in my case too. I get very little jello in the footage. Because of my 3D printed GoPro mount I could only use stick on filter and I ordered few ND4 and ND8 from GetFPV. I use ND8 at the moment.

2./ Hard mount FC

It is hard to believe but that made the biggest difference actually. I can’t back it up with anything other than my flying experience, so don’t expect me to explain you why it made an improvement on my machine. I honestly don’t know. I’ve replaced soft mounts under the FPV vision with just nylon standoffs. No more weird yaw twitches and usual oscillations. All gone. 

3./ ButterFlight

ButterFlight is known for a smooth performance it gives. I tried it as well and it made huge difference to my quad too. Pretty much stock PIDs, all filters OFF and adjusted rates. I have set 8K/4K and Q at 1400. That’s all. The feel is different compared to BetaFlight – pleasure to cruise.

4./ 48Khz PWM frequency

This setting made a difference in flying. In blheli32 suite I’ve changed it from 24Khz. Much smoother performance.

5./ Smooth fingers 🙂

That helps too. If you’re notoric jumpy racer or someone who change flight direction every half second you would never get a smooth lines. Patience is a key here. Don’t over compensate the quad, let it go, be gentle and just feel the flow. It helps. Maybe I am talking bullshit here, who knows. It works for me 🙂

Result?

When higher throttle is applied (above 50-60%) my quad still gets some oscillations. I set TPU at 0.4 but oscillations are still there. It doesn’t actually affects me that much because during my cruising I never go above 50% throttle to save some battery juice. Low end throttle on 7″ has plenty of speed too.

Jello is no more. I have tested my setup in cloudy and sunny conditions. Jell is not present there!

Also no more yaw twitch and any of the shakes I had in the past on 7″ props. Now it’s time to conquer some hills in Scottish Highlands this summer!

Video from the cloudy day: 

Video from sunny day:

Hill dive: 

 

UPDATE Summer 2018Since the article was originally written I don’t actually own this particular 7″ Reverb any more.
I’ve had to downsize my quad fleet since I move onto wings recently.
I still have 7″ Cruiser but it’s is TBS Source Once with the following specs:
– BrotherHobby SpeedShield 2207.5 1750kv
– KISS FC V1
– KISS 32A ESC
– TBS FPVision
– TBS Crossfire

This machine flies even better smoother than my old Reverb.

NorthAero Typhoon and Phoenix motors review

Over the recent weeks I was testing two new NorthAero motors: Typhoon and Phoenix. Motors are designed by Sean Cox of NorthAero and manufactured by BrotherHobby.

In this article I will put down my thoughts about them.

Unboxing

Motors are packed in standalone boxes and have their specs printed on the label. Typhoon and Phoenix come with a set of four high quality M3x6 screws and a lock nut. They come with wires of approximately 17cm long which is very generous.

NorthAero motors are „bottomless” which means that there is less protection from the bottom but on the hand it is easier to keep the motor clean.

Design is all black with silver markings with cooling fins at the top of the bell. Shaft is held by a screw instead of C-clip.

Specification

  • 2207.5 2650kv Typhoon
  • 2207.5 2450kv Phoenix
  • Stator: 0.2mm Kawasaki silicon steel
  • Titanium Alloy hollow shaft
  • NSK 9x4x4 bearings
  • N52h arc magnets
  • 16x16mm screw holes
  • 34g of weight with long wires (around 31g with shorter wires)

Both Typhoon and Phoenix share the same specs apart from KV.

Build quality

NorthAero motors are manufactured by well known BrotherHobby and their build quality doesn’t disappoint. Windings are neatly done and there is no vertical play in the shaft. Just another well made motor.

Motor Testing

I was extensively testing both motors on my favourite freestyle quad:

  • Impulse Reverb frame
  • KISS V2 FC and KISS 32A ESCs
  • TBS Unify VTX
  • Crossfire RX
  • RunCam Swift V2 camera

Typhoon

I had very high hopes for this higher KV motor and I was not disappointed. Typhoons have a very smooth throttle response. There is a lot of torque at the lower and but when the punch is needed there is a very good top end here. I was blown away with the speed of those motors. Pretty insane.

As for battery life I was getting solid 3 minutes of flying on 4S 1300mah graphene lipo which is not bad at all. Lipo was a little bit warm at the end. I guess its because those are high KV motors that can actually squeeze every juice from the battery.

Little clip from on the first flights is here:

Phoenix

Lower KV option, should in theory give better efficiency and thats exactly what I noticed. Phoenix motors had loads of torque on lower end of the throttle but also top end wasn’t bad either. Lipo battery didnt sag as much as with typhoons and I had nearly extra minute of flight time making it 4 on my testing rig which. Of course, no two flights are the same but just take it an indiction.

/Flight video will be added later here/

Conclusion

NorthAero motors are pretty powerful. In fact, they are actually the most powerful motors I have personally tried so far.

On a negative side, they are little bit more expensive compared to competition. I have also managed to damage the shaft screw during bell removal. Somehow the thread disappeared and I couldn’t remove the screw.

Both Typhoon and Phoenix impressed me a lot. Excellent build quality and generally smooth performance is making them a very good choice.

Shopping link 

Motors can be ordered directly from NorthAero @ https://www.northaero.uk/shop